Baghdad: The City of Saints

Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) knew that in order to be truly close to Allah ta’ala there had to be prioritisation of the Quran and authentic Prophetic Sunnah. He showed us that there is no separation between the Messenger (SAW) and the Message.

By SALEEMAH JAFFER

A FEW years ago, I was sitting in a class with my teacher, Shaikh Muhammad Al Ninowy, and he said he would share a story with us.

He smiled, and added that as with many such stories, it’s not always possible to rigorously authenticate it, so you can take it or leave it – but the lesson of the story is one that you should take with you regardless.

He started the story by explaining that at the time, Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) was very famous. He was a well-respected and revered scholar and people traveled far to sit at his feet to learn from him. One night, a voice from above spoke to him, telling him that he had reached a great rank of spirituality and purification, and that due to his great achievement he no longer needed to do the basics of performing his daily salaah.

Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) responded to this by saying, ‘I seek refuge with Allah from Shaytaan.’ It was at this moment that Shaytaan appeared in front of him, flabbergasted. He asked Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA), ‘How did you know it was me?’, to which Shaikh Abdul Qadir responded that if the greatest creation of all time, Rasulullah (SAW), had to perform the five daily prayers, then how could he be excused from them?

Growing up, I had heard many stories of the miracles of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA). But this story is the one that resonated with me most. This story has so many layered lessons and, to me, defines the reality of a saint.

Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) knew that in order to be truly close to Allah ta’ala there had to be prioritisation of the Quran and authentic Prophetic Sunnah. He showed us that there is no separation between the Messenger (SAW) and the Message. Through this story he also reminds us that no matter what level of spirituality one has achieved, Shaytaan will still try to lead one astray, and we need to constantly work at our faith.

Both my grandfathers were lovers and followers of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA). Our family home has always been one where the Qaderi way was not only revered but lovingly practiced. In many ways, traveling to Baghdad was like visiting an ancestral home, where learning about the past put the present into perspective. The maqaam of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) welcomes people from different countries and backgrounds, united under the banner of love for Allah ta’ala and His Messenger (SAW).

The astaana (resting place) of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) has been serving the community for almost a thousand years. Today, the langar khana (kitchen and dining hall) cooks 11 pots of food daily, feeding hundreds of people a nourishing and delicious meal. Volunteers from all over the world come to Baghdad to work in the kitchen, cooking and serving the community.

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We visited many places of significance in Baghdad and the area surrounding it. Many of the Mashaaikh buried in the area are the teachers and grand-teachers of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA).

The beautiful mosque and maqaam of Imam Musa Al Kadhim and his grandson, Imam Jawad ibn Ali Rida, is one of the major spiritual sites to visit in Baghdad. (Photo AMEERA DESAI)

One of the major sites to visit in Baghdad is the maqaam of Imam Musa al Kadhim ibn Jafar Sadiq (RA). His grandson, Imam Jawad ibn Ali Rida is buried next to him.

The mosque and maqaam seem to emit a soft warm glow. Walking across the courtyard, it feels as if the beautiful architecture and decorative patterns are telling you, ‘Take a breath, reflect and connect with your Lord.’

As we sat under the umbrellas, reciting our salawaat and tahleel, I felt immense gratitude to Allah ta’ala for granting us the gift of being part of the Ummah of Rasulullah (SAW). When we consider the difficulties and hardships faced by our pious predecessors, and the sacrifices they made to ensure the preservation and propagation of our Deen, we realise how truly blessed we are.

Every entrance to the final resting place of Sayyiduna Salman al-Farsi (RA), the beloved companion of Rasulullah (SAW), in the Mada’in district in Iraq, is displayed with the words of the Messenger (SAW): ‘Salman is from us, (my) Ahlul Bayt’. (Photo SALEEMAH JAFFER)

A highlight for me was the visit to the final resting place of Sayyiduna Salman al Farsi al Muhammadi (RA). As we drove to Mada’in I recalled the words of our Messenger (SAW): ‘Salman is from us, (my) Ahlul Bayt’. As we approached the compound, those words were displayed at every entrance, like a crown, celebrating glad tidings. Two additional Sahabah are also buried in the compound, Sayyiduna Hudayfah bin Yamani (RA) and Sayyiduna Abdullah ibn Jabir al Ansari (RA).

It’s hard to find words to adequately describe the feeling of comfort that envelopes one in these special places. It’s as if every road, while physically taking you in different directions, to different destinations, is actually only taking you to Allah ta’ala and to His Messenger (SAW).

To read about the story of Sayyiduna Salman Al-Farsi, the beloved companion of Rasulullah (SAW), click here.

Saleemah Jaffer recently travelled to Iraq with a group guided by Haafidh Mahmood Khatib. She is a student of the Alawi Husayni Ninowi Zawiyah and is currently studying towards a Ph.D.

This article was first published in the January 17, 2025 edition of MUSLIM VIEWS under Saleemah Jaffer’s monthly column, ‘THE ROAD WELL TRAVELLED – exploring issues of social responsibility, spirituality and agency’.