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‘I used to think that the Shuhadaa of Karbala died for Islam. Now I realise, they are the ones who truly lived for Islam. And they continue to live in the hearts of the lovers of Ahlul Bayt.’
By SALEEMAH JAFFER
THE Euphrates is a river mentioned in the Quran; a river that still flows today, irrigating the land around it.
I knew we would see the Euphrates during our travels in Iraq, so I can’t say it took me by surprise. But what did catch me off guard was how I felt, looking at this large, flowing, body of water. My mother’s voice echoed in my mind: ‘Not even one drop’.
I remember learning about Karbala as a child. My mother drew a family tree and made sure we knew the names: Imam Hasan and Imam Husayn, Imam Ali Akbar, baby Ali Asgar, Imam Zayn al-Abidin, little Sakeenah and Sayyida Zaynab (May Allah ta’ala be well pleased with them all). And then she drew a map: Madinah to Makkah, Makkah to Kufa, Kufa to Karbala. And of course, the blue line of the Euphrates.
Looking at the river today, it feels surreal to think that the honourable family of our Messenger (SAW) was denied access to the water of this river. Baby Ali Asgar (RA), the youngest son of Imam Husayn (RA), was martyred on these riverbanks, dehydrated and thirsty. Imam Abu Fadhl Abbas (RA) was brutally martyred trying to access water from this very river. It made me think: ‘Will the Euphrates complain to Allah ta’ala that it was denied the opportunity to quench the thirst of the Prophetic Household, and that their blood flowed into its riverbanks?’
Entering Karbala and seeing the majestic beauty of the maqaams is both heartwarming and heartbreaking.
On the one hand we are reminded that martyrs in the path of Allah ta’ala are alive (Quran 2:154), so it is indeed an honour to be visiting these sacred lands. And on the other, the jarring reality of the battle and sacrifices of the Prophetic Household is evident everywhere you look. The beauty of the structures is breathtaking, but its light shines dim in comparison to the light of Imam al-Husayn, which seems to envelope the entire precincts.
Our first stop was the maqaam of Imam Abu Fadhl Abbas ibn Ali (RA), the brother of Imam al-Husayn. He was, and still is, the epitome of loyalty and devotion, sacrificing his life for his brother. Imam Abu Fadhl Abbas was Imam Husayn’s shield, always trying to protect him.
Thereafter we proceeded to the maqaam of Imam al-Husayn (RA). It is said that his sons Ali Akbar (RA) and Ali Asghar (RA) are buried with him in the same area. Even though the maqaam was full and busy, there was a feeling of serenity. Being close to Imam Husayn’s resting place softened my heart and reaffirmed my faith – and left me with the thought: If this is how it feels to be close to him on this Earth, imagine being in his presence in Jannah.
Later we did a walking ziyarah of the area and visited different places of significance.
History comes alive in Karbala. As you make your way through the alleys, the signage and the fragrance of oudh tells you that you’re in a place that holds a piece of the story.
Of all the places we visited, the one that touched my heart most was the place where the tents were erected. Now, it’s a beautiful structure. But as you step inside, even with all the modern finishings, you know this campsite was hot, it was dry, and they were surrounded and outnumbered.
The entire Prophetic Household was cramped into a few square metres. Imam Abu Fadhl Abbas (RA) in the front, the protector; Imam Husayn (RA) in the middle, the ‘Prince of the Youth of Jannah’ and the image of his honourable grandfather; and Sayyida Zaynab (RA) behind him, protecting the family of her brother.
And right at the back was the place where Imam Zayn al-Abidin (RA) was hidden. Standing there, everything I knew about Imam Zayn al-Abidin (RA) came together like a puzzle: the young boy on the cusp of adulthood, desperate to join his father, but too ill to even stand; being forced into hiding to protect the Husayni line; his years in Madinah tul Munowwarah, teaching people about Islam and sending them out into the world, and his time in captivity when he was deprived from visiting the Masjid of his great-grandfather (SAW).
The Ahlul Bayt of Rasulullah (SAW) were not people who just talked. They lived and loved Islam.
There is a famous Persian couplet by Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti about the martyrdom of Imam Husayn that my maternal uncle taught us when we were young. I remember him, and our other family elders saying, ‘Imam Husayn was martyred for La illaha illalah’. Perhaps I was too young at the time; I never understood what it meant. A few years later my teacher, Shaikh Muhammad Al Ninowy, explained to me that Imam Husayn’s stance was firm because he knew that the political powers at the time were shifting Islam from a religion centred around the Quran and the authentic Prophetic Sunnah to a figure-centric faith. The tyrannical leaders were power-hungry and were determined to bend the religion to suit their agendas. Imam Husayn knew that he had to carry the flag of Islam, share the message of Muhammadan Mercy and stand up against the tyrants.
Walking in Karbala, you feel this. You feel the reality that Imam Husayn stood up for the message of Tawhid, for the Sunnah of his grandfather (SAW) and for the well-being of the Ummah at large.
I used to think that the Shuhadaa of Karbala died for Islam. Now I realise, they are the ones who truly lived for Islam. And they continue to live in the hearts of the lovers of Ahlul Bayt.
Saleemah Jaffer recently travelled to Iraq with a group guided by Haafidh Mahmood Khatib. She is a student of the Alawi Husayni Ninowi Zawiyah.
- This article was first published in the December 6, 2024 edition of MUSLIM VIEWS under Saleemah Jaffer’s monthly column, ‘THE ROAD WELL TRAVELLED – exploring issues of social responsibility, spirituality and agency’.
The post was updated on July 29, 2025 to include the graphic with the family tree and map of the region.
Click here to read about the sacrifices of Imam Husayn (RA).
