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AMENA HAYAT shares entries from her diary recollecting her 2007 visit to Iran. This, in the aftermath of the bombing of the country by Israel and the United States.
En route to Iran, I read a disturbing report in the Mail & Guardian; it warned of an impending American onslaught on Iran and admonished that Iran henceforth is to be taken as Iraq. (A reference to the invasion and ongoing occupation of Iraq at the time, 2003-2011).
The first sight of Tehran filled me with great trepidation. Even the matter of fact safety announcements, ‘For your own safety, fasten your seatbelts’, acquired a different connotation. I expected the worse.
Minutes into Tehran my spirits lifted, the dread left me. The vibrancy of the city was catching. The sight of an ocean of cars, packed like sardines (at the time the city, with a population of twelve million, had six million cars) was reassuring.
Tehran was alive. It glistened in the brilliant rays of the spring sun, and the city’s lush, landscaped gardens and boulevards provided a tranquillity that is often absent in cities. With vigour and vitality people went about their affairs. The mood was one of confidence.
Later in the day, as we ventured to the mountain and ski resort of Tochal, which ispart of the breathtaking snow-capped Alborz mountain range adjacent to metropolitan Tehran, our encounter with the Minister of Defence was reassuring. For the Minister of Defence to have come out without a bodyguard spoke volumes for the security of the nation and belied the concerns of Western propagandists.
The Iranian mind manifests its many talents in a variety of ways – visual and performing arts, and literature. In addition, health and exercise, and personal grooming are indispensable elements of Iranian culture. The nurturing of minds starts early; I saw six-year-olds being introduced to the poetry of Ferdowsi at his tomb in Tus. Routinely school children of all ages visit places of cultural heritage.
In this land the rose holds a significant place; it symbolises love and all that flows from it. It is never far removed from an Iranian’s life. A rose petal festival takes place annually near the city of Qum. On many local destinations I was met with roses. And exquisite florists are found at every turn. Aesthetic appreciation of beauty is part of the Iranian way of life.
Iranians are proud of their ancient heritage, in particular their pre-Islamic past. Adoration of their past heroes is manifested in sculptured forms and pictures, forming part of Iranian culture.
Visiting the cities of Iran revealed the country’s rich and varied past. Aspects of Iranian way of life are reminiscent of the social norms of the people of Indo-Pakistan.
Also, the hospitality we enjoyed in Iran is no different to that of the Indo-Pak Muslims, if not more generous, where even the guide may want to treat you as his mahman (guest). I found an enormous number of Farsi words identical to Urdu and used in the same context. Muhammad Iqbal, the philosopher-poet of Indo-Pakistan, known as Iqbal Lahori in Iran, is a household name.
Shiraz, the city of poets, artists and musicians – and romance –has a continental vibe, owing to its proximity to the Gulf states and, in the heat of summer, Arabs come to the city to seek refuge from the heat.
It is the place where Khwaja Hafez, the renowned Persian mystic and poet, lies buried. His poetry is characterised by love of humanity and contempt of hypocrisy, contributing to his phenomenal popularity, with Persian villagers singing his poetry.
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Iranians fervently believe in the spiritual powers of Hafez. I found the Iranian youth reading his poems at his tomb. The mood was solemn, and a strong sense of spiritual presence was palpable. I also spotted a dervish engrossed in prayer, seemingly oblivious of his surroundings.
Shiraz is blessed with another distinguished figure, Sa’di, one of the greatest figures in classical Persian literature. His Bustan (The Orchard), and Gulistan (The Rose Garden) have been translated into many European languages, providing Western students a glimpse of the genius of this writer.
At Mashhad, in the Khorasan province of Iran, the tomb of Imam Ali al-Ridha (RA), the eighth Shi’a Imam and also considered part of the chain of mystical authority in Sunni Sufi orders, has exquisite art manifestations from different periods of history. Nadir Shah, the Iranian ruler and conqueror, whose tomb lies in the city, was a contributor to its art.
Incidentally, the fabulous Koh-i-Noor diamond was brought from India to Iran when Nadir Shah returned to Iran after sacking Delhi in 1739. It changed hands a few times and finally it’s on public display at the Jewel House in the Tower of London. The largest diamond in the National Treasury in Tehran, among other masterpieces, is the Darya-ye Noor, many of which are from Queen Farah’s collection. More of her treasures can be seen at the Royal Pahlavi Palaces.
On this vast complex at Mashhad, which is a masterpiece of art in itself, stands a museum, a bookstore and a sophisticated and ultra-modern three-storey library that carries literature in 60 different languages. The English section was most impressive. I also spotted a Bible.
At Tus the white mausoleum of Ferdowsi, one of the greatest poets of Persia and the author of the national epic, the Shahnameh, rises majestically before one, befitting the poet’s stature.
Historically, scholars travelled to Nishapur. Here we paid homage to Farid ad-Din Attar, one of the greatest Muslim mystical poets and thinkers. His greatest work is the well-known Manṭiq-uṭ-Ṭayr (The Conference of the Birds). He met his untimely death during the ferocious Mongol attack of Nishapur where, it is said, even the dogs and cats of Nishapur were slain!
A few hundred meters away lies the tomb of Omar Khayyam, an astronomer, poet, philosopher, mathematician, physician, renowned for his scientific achievements and his contribution to Algebra. In the West he is known for his Ruba’iyat.
Incidentally, it was in this historic place where Khwajah Muinuddin Chishti, the Sufi shaikh, met his master, Khwaja Uthman Harooni.
The beautiful resort city of Isfahan, with its landscaped gardens along the famous Zayandeh River and flanked by grand hotels, has an extraordinary city charm, and has become a place of retreat for locals and tourists alike. Nonetheless, these modern amenities do not betray the city’s rich historical past – Isfahan boasts 2 000 historical monuments!
At the Imam Mosque in Isfahan, our guide spoke about the culture of Ashura in Iran where young and old commemorate with great fervour the events of Karbala. As he spoke, he pointed towards the vast compound that is taken up during this time.
Ever since my arrival in Iran, I had looked around for the much spoken about chador – the black piece of cloth worn by women, which the western media never fails to portray. Somewhat disappointed by its near absence, I had given up the search, until it confronted me with full force at Qum, where none, young and old, go without one. I hastily donned one myself.
Qum is the country’s religious centre where you see the Ayatollahs and the clergy-in-training. At Oum’s theological centre, we observed a discourse on taqlid in progress, which was led by a mujtahid (qualified scholar). As the scholars dispersed, they reassembled into smaller circular formations, wrapped in debate and discussion.
Qum is also the place where His Eminence Ayatollah Ruhullah Khomeini (1902-1989), spent many years of his life as student and teacher, and where the Islamic Revolution of Iran took root. His tomb is to be found at Behesht-e Zahra (Paradise of Zahra) cemetery in Tehran.
Some 400 saints are interred in Qum and its neighbourhood. Here the shrine of Fatimah Masumeh, the sister of Imam Ali al-Rida (RA), is one more place of pilgrimage.
At one of the bookstores in Qum, I looked around for Dr Ali Shariati’s works. In a low voice our host informed us that owing to the writer’s socialist ideology, his works would not be found in Qum. I felt disappointed and sad. Ali Shariati had been in the forefront of the Islamic Revolution and was seen as second only to Ayatullah Khomeini in the struggle. His uplifting talks were an inspiration for the youth and women of Iran. He died at the age of 44 in London. He is believed to have died of poisoning at the hands of the Shah Reza Pahlavi’s notorious security police, SAVAK.
In Iranian society women have been an active force. In rural and urban areas women shoulder responsibilities alongside men. To the lead-up and aftermath of the revolution women had been a driving force.
On our last Friday in Tehran, we visited the new Tehran Musallah (Friday Mosque) that had opened with a book exhibition of colossal magnitude. I had never before set eyes on such a large number of books in one place.
The extensive, two-floored premises of this beautiful structure, enhanced with intricate artwork, was taken up by local and foreign book agencies, with books in many languages, including English.
Later that afternoon, we visited the vast National Library in Tehran. It is spectacularly situated on a hilltop and has ultramodern facilities. We walked along gentle flowing streams and rose shrubs that led up to its grand entrance hall.
As we were ushered into the archives, our guide pointed out an exquisite 2 metre by 1.5 metre by 1 metre hand-written Quran in the lobby. Among manuscripts of other greats, we saw one by Ibn Sina. The library is equipped to cater for the partially blind and the disabled.
As we left this massive complex, I wondered what might happen to such places in the event of an onslaught on Iran. I tried not to think of it.
Subsequent to the Islamic Revolution, learning institutes mushroomed, and roads were developed. The numerous centres of learning in Iran are a manifestation of the intellectual striving of the nation.
Annually, Teachers Day is celebrated. Once again, the emphasis is on learning, which is an indispensable feature of Iranian society.
Most Iranian youth have nothing less than a Master’s degree and many are pursuing a PhD. Yet they are faced with lack of job opportunities. This remains an inevitable lament of the youth. Many work as taxi drivers or sell fruit.
I had not seen more than half a dozen beggars during my stay in Iran, and they were Iraqi refugees. Yet the Tehran Times reported that currently 12 million people in Iran live below the poverty line.
On Workers Day (May 1), like most places in the world, workers took to the streets of Tehran protesting against low wages.
Freedom of religion does exist – synagogues, churches and fire temples are found. But freedom of speech, in the form of criticism levelled at the Supreme Leader or president of the country, is severely curtailed.
A female journalist we met was highly critical of government and maintained that many journalists have been imprisoned for speaking out against the authorities. In many shops and bazaars, I asked for the portrait of Imam Khomeini. The reaction was disturbing: always followed by a sullen silence. To test, I asked on a few occasions for a portrait of the Shah: faces lit up at the mention of his name.
I questioned people from different social strata about how the Ayatollahs lived; the answer invariably was, ‘as ordinary citizens’. It is reminiscent of Imam Khomeini’s lifestyle. When in exile in Paris he refused using a fan because his people in Iran had no fans.
People in Iran seem happy and energetic. I had expected to see sad and droopy faces. The school-going kids are a rowdy bunch, like anywhere else.
Most Iranian youth are ultra-modern, westernised and sophisticated. As we landed at Tehran Airport it was interesting, to see, almost hilarious, highly fashionable females change from western gear to the normal – scarves that cover half their heads, a pants (mainly jeans) and a jacket-like top, which rests way above the knees.
Stores which are everywhere to be found have the best European commodities. Cinemas are found in all the cities. Western music is popular. CNN and BBC are banned, yet easily accessible.
It was reported in the local press that a plane was forced to land at Tehran Airport due to a mechanical problem. A Jewish passenger on board, fearing for his life, refused to disembark. I doubt we will hear about the goodwill of the Iranians; they received him with hospitality and presented him with a generous gift, when he finally set foot on Iranian soil.
On our departure, when thanking our host for his hospitality, he responded: ‘You are my brother and sister, you are Muslims, it is my duty.’
That was the year 2007.
Iran is one of the bearers of the world’s greatest civilisations and cultures. Its scientific and philosophical contributions have been immense. The obliteration of the historical heritage of this great nation in war would be devastating. Let us focus on the tenacity of the Iranians.
