The warm, welcoming embrace of Iraq

‘Even though I did not know it before, I know it now: Karbala, Najaf and Baghdad have played, and continue to play, a role in who I am today.’

By SALEEMAH JAFFER

Iraq always seemed like a mystical place – the Baitul Hikma (House of Wisdom), schools, libraries and markets added to both the magic and intrigue.

Growing up, my maternal uncles often told stories of Karbala and Baghdad – tales of tragedy and miracles, love and heartbreak – which only heightened the allure of these blessed lands.

Earlier this month (October 2024), my sister and I joined a group traveling to Iraq, led by Hafidh Mahmood Khatib. The purpose of the trip was to visit Najaf, Karbala and Baghdad for a ziyarah tour of the maqamat (resting places) of the Prophets, Ahlul Bayt, Sahabah, Awliyah and Ulama of the region.

We traveled via Cairo and were fortunate to visit the mosques and maqamat of Imam Shafi (RA), Sayyidah Nafeesa (RA) and Imam Husayn (RA).

In Iraq, our first stop was Najaf, followed by Karbala and then Baghdad. Our days in Baghdad included day trips to Madain and Samarra. The journey was indeed a memorable one, filled with tahleel, dhikr, salawaat and dua.

The beautiful stained glass and mosaic mirrors in the mosque of Sayyiduna Ali (RA) in Najaf. (Photo SALEEMAH JAFFER)

The iconic dome of the maqaam of Imam Husayn (RA) in Karbala. (Photo SALEEMAH JAFFER)

The silsila (chain) of the Qadari Tariqah, showing the link between Shaykh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) and Rasulullah (SAW). (Photo SALEEMAH JAFFER)

The South African group, of which the writer was part, paying their final visit to the maqaam of Shaikh Abdul Qadir Jilani (RA) in Baghdad. (Photo SALEEMAH JAFFER)

Despite the differences in culture, language and practiced traditions, Iraq felt like home. Every place of significance, every maqaam, and every mosque felt like a warm, welcoming embrace.

As a Muslim woman of Ahlus Sunnah wal Jamaah in post-apartheid South Africa, I’ve always known that many different aspects of my environment and heritage have influenced my identity. A few weeks ago, if you had asked me, ‘Which places have influenced the person you are today?’, I would have quickly replied, ‘Madina, the home of Rasulullah (SAW); Makkah, the place of the Baytullah; Morba, the village of my grandparents; and Cape Town, the place of my birth and my home.’

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Now, I can say with certainty that even though I did not know it before, I know it now: Karbala, Najaf and Baghdad have played, and continue to play, a role in who I am today. Over the next three months, I will reflect on the three major cities we visited. This journey was one of profound lessons, new friendships, personal growth and spiritual awakening.

The first part of Saleemah Jaffer’s reflections on her visit to Iraq will appear in the November 1, 2024 print edition of Muslim Views in her regular column, ‘The Road Well-Travelled’. It will also be available to our online readers in the PDF version of the print copy.

Saleemah Jaffer holds an MA in Peace and Conflict studies, currently pursuing a PhD, and is a student of the Alawi Husayni Ninowi Zawiyah (Spiritual school).

The warm, welcoming embrace of Iraq

‘Even though I did not know it before, I know it now: Karbala, Najaf and Baghdad have played, and continue to play, a role in who I am today.’

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